按键盘上方向键 ← 或 → 可快速上下翻页，按键盘上的 Enter 键可回到本书目录页，按键盘上方向键 ↑ 可回到本页顶部！
————未阅读完？加入书签已便下次继续阅读！
There was something uncanny in their commonplaceness in so uncommon
a place。 While we were still wondering at the whereabouts of their
owner； another turn disclosed him by a sort of cove where his boat
lay drawn up。 Indeed； it was an ideal spot for an angler； and a
lucrative one as well； for the river is naturally full of fish。
Were I the angler I have seen others； I would encamp here for the
rest of my life and feed off such phosphoric diet as I might catch；
to the quickening of the brain and the composing of the body。
But fortunately man has more of the river than of the rock in his
composition； and whether he will or no is steadily being hurried past
such nicks in life toward other adventures beyond。
The rapids here were； if anything； finer than those above Mitsushima。
Of them in all there are said to be more than thirty。 Some have
nicknames； as 〃the Turret；〃 〃the Adze；〃 〃Boiling Rice；〃 and 〃the
Mountain Bath。〃 Indeed； probably all of them have distinctive
appellations； but one cannot ask the names of everybody in a
procession。 There were some bad enough to give one a sensation。
Two of the worst rocks have been blown up； but enough still remain to
point a momentary moral or adorn an after tale。 All were exhilarating。
Through even the least bad I should have been more than sorry to have
come alone。 But confiding trust in the boatmen was not misplaced；
for if questionable in their morals； they were above reproach in
their water…craft。
The rapids were incidents； the gorge we had always with us； superb
cleft that it was； hewn as by some giant axe； notching the mountain
chain imperiously for passage。 Hour followed hour with the same
setting。 How the river first took it into its head to come through
so manifestly unsuitable a place is a secret for the geologist to
tell。 But I for one wish I had been by to see。
From morning till noon we raced with the water at the bottom of the
canon。 Each turn was like； and yet unlike； the one before； so that I
wonder that I have other than a blurred composite picture on my
mind's plate。 Yet certain bits have picked themselves out and ousted
the rest； and the river comes up to me in thought as vivid as in
life。
These repeated disclosures that disclosed nothing lulled us at last
into a happy unconsciousness of end in this subterranean passage to a
lower world。 Though we were cleaving the mountain chain in part
against the grain； indeed because we were； it showed no sign of
giving out； until without premonition a curve shot us out at the foot
of a village perched so perpendicularly on terraces that it almost
overhung the stream。 It was called Nishinoto； and consisted of a
street that sidled up between the dwellings in a more than alpine
way。 Up it we climbed aerially to a teahouse for lunch； but not
before I had directed the boatmen to discharge the smuggled goods。
In another hour we were under way again less the uninvited bales；
which； left sitting all alone on the sands； mutely reproached us till
they could be seen no more。 At the first bend the gorge closed round
about us as rugged as ever。 The rapids were not so dangerous as
those above； but the stream was still fast if less furious。 When we
looked at the water we did not appear to be moving at all； and when
we looked up again at the bank we almost lost our balance for the
sudden start。
Then gradually a change crept over the face of things。 The stream
grew a thought more steady； the canon a shade less wild。 We passed
through some more rapids；our last； the boatmen said。 The river
began to widen； the mountains standing more respectfully apart。
They let us see nothing new； but they showed us more of themselves；
and grand buttresses they made。 Then the reaches grew longer； and other
hills less high became visible ahead。 By all signs we were come to
the beginning of the end。 Another turn； and we were confronted with
a real view；a very hilly view； to be sure； but one that belonged to
the world of man。
It was like coming out of a tunnel into the light。
The current hurried us on。 At each bend the hills in front rose less
wild than at the bend before。 Villages began to dot the shores；
and the river spread out and took its ease。 Another curve； and we no
longer saw hills and rocks ahead。 A great plain stretched before us；
over which our eyes wandered at will。 Looking back； we marked the
mountains already closing up in line。 I tried to place the river's gap；
but the barrier had grown continuous to the eye。 Like adventurers in
a fairy tale； the opening through which we had come had closed
unrecognizably behind us。
In front all was plain； every…day plain； with people tilling it；
and hamlets； and in the immediate foreground； right athwart our course；
a ferryboat full of folk。 As we bore down between it and the landing
place two men gesticulated at us from the bank。 We swerved in toward
them。 They shouted something to the boatmen； and Yejiro turned to
me。 The wayfarers asked if we would let them go with us to the sea。
There was no regular conveyance； and they much desired to reach the
Tokaido that night。 What would I do？
〃Oh！ Very well；〃 said I； reluctantly； 〃take them on board。〃
So it had come to this； after our romantic solitary voyage！ We were
to end as a common carrier； after all。 One is born a demigod； the
French say； to die a grocer。
Our passengers were honest and businesslike。 Soon after coming
aboard they offered to pay for their passage； an offer I politely
declined。 Then they fell to chatting with Yejiro； and I doubt not in
five minutes had possessed themselves of all our immediate history。
Meanwhile； the river was lazily dropping us down to the sea。 On the
left； at a respectful distance； a long； low rise； like a bit of
fortification； ran down indefinitely in the same direction； by way of
encouraging the stream。 Pitiable supposition！ Was this
meadow…meandering bit of water indeed our wild Tenriugawa！ It seemed
impossible。 Once we had a bathetic bit of excitement over a near
case of grounding； where the water had spread itself out to ripple
down to a lower level。 This was all to recall the past。 The stream
had grown steady and profitable。 More than once we passed craft
jarringly mercantile； and even some highly respectable automations；
water…wheel boats anchored in the current； nose to tail； in a long
line； apparently paddling up stream； but never advancing an inch。
And all these sights had a work…a…day； machine look like middle age。
The afternoon aged to match。 The sun began to dip behind the distant
hills； and then toward the east； in front of us； came out the long
outline of the Tokaido bridge； three quarters of a mile in length；
like a huge caterpillar crawling methodically across the river…bed。
Gradually we drew toward it； till its myriad legs glinted in the
sunset glow； and then； as we swept under； it wheeled round to become
instantly a gaunt stalking silhouette against the sky。 From below by
the river's mouth the roar of the surf came forebodingly up out of
the ashen east。 But in the west was still a glory； and as I turned
to it I seemed to look down the long vista of the journey to western
Noto by the sea。 I thought how I had pictured it to myself before
starting； and then how little the facts had fitted the fancy。 It had
lost and gained； if no longer maiden； it was mine； and the glamour
that fringes the future had but changed to the glamour that gilds the
past。 Distance had brought it all back again。 Delays； discomforts；
difficulties； disappeared； and its memory rose as lovely as the sky
past which I looked。 For the better part of place or person is the
thought it leaves behind。
End