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to the ground。 If it teaches nothing else； my dear； it teaches one
a great point of policynamely； to stick by one's party。
While these thoughts （and sundry others relative to the horrible
cold of the place； the intense dulness of delay； the stupidity of
leaving a warm bed and a breakfast in order to witness a procession
that is much better performed at a theatre）while these thoughts
were passing in the mind； the church began to fill apace； and you
saw that the hour of the ceremony was drawing near。
Imprimis； came men with lighted staves； and set fire to at least ten
thousand wax…candles that were hanging in brilliant chandeliers in
various parts of the chapel。 Curtains were dropped over the upper
windows as these illuminations were effected； and the church was
left only to the funereal light of the spermaceti。 To the right was
the dome； round the cavity of which sparkling lamps were set； that
designed the shape of it brilliantly against the darkness。 In the
midst； and where the altar used to stand； rose the catafalque。 And
why not？ Who is God here but Napoleon？ and in him the sceptics have
already ceased to believe； but the people does still somewhat。 He
and Louis XIV。 divide the worship of the place between them。
As for the catafalque； the best that I can say for it is that it is
really a noble and imposing…looking edifice； with tall pillars
supporting a grand dome； with innumerable escutcheons； standards；
and allusions military and funereal。 A great eagle of course tops
the whole： tripods burning spirits of wine stand round this kind of
dead man's throne； and as we saw it （by peering over the heads of
our neighbors in the front rank）； it looked； in the midst of the
black concave； and under the effect of half a thousand flashing
cross…lights； properly grand and tall。 The effect of the whole
chapel； however （to speak the jargon of the painting…room）； was
spoiled by being CUT UP： there were too many objects for the eye to
rest upon： the ten thousand wax…candles； for instance； in their
numberless twinkling chandeliers； the raw tranchant colors of the
new banners； wreaths； bees； N's； and other emblems dotting the place
all over； and incessantly puzzling； or rather BOTHERING the beholder。
High overhead； in a sort of mist； with the glare of their original
colors worn down by dust and time； hung long rows of dim ghostly…
looking standards； captured in old days from the enemy。 They were；
I thought； the best and most solemn part of the show。
To suppose that the people were bound to be solemn during the
ceremony is to exact from them something quite needless and
unnatural。 The very fact of a squeeze dissipates all solemnity。
One great crowd is always； as I imagine； pretty much like another。
In the course of the last few years I have seen three： that
attending the coronation of our present sovereign； that which went
to see Courvoisier hanged； and this which witnessed the Napoleon
ceremony。 The people so assembled for hours together are jocular
rather than solemn； seeking to pass away the weary time with the
best amusements that will offer。 There was； to be sure； in all the
scenes above alluded to； just one momentone particular moment
when the universal people feels a shock and is for that second
serious。
But except for that second of time； I declare I saw no seriousness
here beyond that of ennui。 The church began to fill with personages
of all ranks and conditions。 First； opposite our seats came a
company of fat grenadiers of the National Guard； who presently； at
the word of command； put their muskets down against benches and
wainscots； until the arrival of the procession。 For seven hours
these men formed the object of the most anxious solicitude of all
the ladies and gentlemen seated on our benches： they began to stamp
their feet； for the cold was atrocious； and we were frozen where we
sat。 Some of them fell to blowing their fingers； one executed a
kind of dance； such as one sees often here in cold weatherthe
individual jumps repeatedly upon one leg； and kicks out the other
violently； meanwhile his hands are flapping across his chest。 Some
fellows opened their cartouche…boxes； and from them drew eatables of
various kinds。 You can't think how anxious we were to know the
qualities of the same。 〃Tiens； ce gros qui mange une cuisse de
volaille！〃〃Il a du jambon； celui…la。〃 〃I should like some； too；〃
growls an Englishman； 〃for I hadn't a morsel of breakfast；〃 and so
on。 This is the way； my dear； that we see Napoleon buried。
Did you ever see a chicken escape from clown in a pantomime； and hop
over into the pit； or amongst the fiddlers？ and have you not seen
the shrieks of enthusiastic laughter that the wondrous incident
occasions？ We had our chicken； of course： there never was a public
crowd without one。 A poor unhappy woman in a greasy plaid cloak；
with a battered rose…colored plush bonnet； was seen taking her place
among the stalls allotted to the grandees。 〃Voyez donc l'Anglaise；〃
said everybody； and it was too true。 You could swear that the
wretch was an Englishwoman： a bonnet was never made or worn so in
any other country。 Half an hour's delightful amusement did this
lady give us all。 She was whisked from seat to seat by the
huissiers； and at every change of place woke a peal of laughter。 I
was glad； however； at the end of the day to see the old pink bonnet
over a very comfortable seat； which somebody had not claimed and she
had kept。
Are not these remarkable incidents？ The next wonder we saw was the
arrival of a set of tottering old Invalids； who took their places
under us with drawn sabres。 Then came a superb drum…major； a
handsome smiling good…humored giant of a man； his breeches
astonishingly embroidered with silver lace。 Him a dozen little
drummer…boys followed〃the little darlings！〃 all the ladies cried
out in a breath： they were indeed pretty little fellows； and came
and stood close under us： the huge drum…major smiled over his little
red…capped flock； and for many hours in the most perfect contentment
twiddled his moustaches and played with the tassels of his cane。
Now the company began to arrive thicker and thicker。 A whole covey
of Conseillers…d'Etat came in； in blue coats； embroidered with blue
silk； then came a crowd of lawyers in toques and caps； among whom
were sundry venerable Judges in scarlet； purple velvet； and ermine
a kind of Bajazet costume。 Look there！ there is the Turkish
Ambassador in his red cap； turning his solemn brown face about and
looking preternaturally wise。 The Deputies walk in in a body。
Guizot is not there： he passed by just now in full ministerial
costume。 Presently little Thiers saunters back： what a clear； broad
sharp…eyed face the fellow has； with his gray hair cut down so
demure！ A servant passes； pushing through the crowd a shabby wheel…
chair。 It has just brought old Moncey the Governor of the Invalids；
the honest old man who defended Paris so stoutly in 1814。 He has
been very ill； and is worn down almost by infirmities： but in his
illness he was perpetually asking； 〃Doctor； shall I live till the
15th？ Give me till then； and I die contented。〃 One can't help
believing that the old man's wish is honest； however one may doubt
the piety of another illustrious Marshal； who once carried a candle
before Charles X。 in a procession； and has been this morning to
Neuilly to kneel and pray at the foot of Napoleon's coffin。 He
might have said his prayers at home； to be sure； but don't let us
ask too much： that kind of reserve is not a Frenchman's
characteristic。
Bangbang！ At about half…past two a dull sound of cannonading was
heard without the church； and signals took place between the
Commandant of the Invalids； of the National Guards； and the big
drum…major。 Looking to these troops （the fat Nationals were
shuffling into line again） the two Commandants tittered； as nearly